Major appliances fail in transit for a small set of predictable reasons: water left in a hose freezes or leaks, an unbraced washer drum slams against its housing, a refrigerator gets powered on before its compressor oil has resettled, or a gas line is disconnected by someone who should not be touching it. Preparing appliances is mostly about neutralizing those specific failure modes one appliance at a time, on a schedule. The work also has a regulatory edge worth knowing in Georgia: a mover’s liability for a damaged appliance is governed by the valuation the customer selects, and the deadline to file a claim on an in-state move is short. This guide walks each appliance through disconnection and protection, then covers the equipment, the timing, and the documentation that decide whether a claim succeeds if something does go wrong.
Start with documentation and the disconnection sequence
Before anything is unplugged, photograph each appliance from several angles and record its make, model, and serial number. This is not busywork. If an appliance arrives damaged, a claim is far stronger when pre-move condition is documented and the unit is identifiable. Warranties matter too: some manufacturers void coverage if a sealed system is opened or if anyone other than an authorized technician services the unit, so check the warranty terms before deciding whether to move an appliance without help or have it handled professionally.
The disconnection order across the household runs water, then power, then gas, and gas is the line most people should not touch. Every appliance below follows the same logic: cut the supply, drain or empty the unit, secure or remove anything that can move, then wrap and protect. Doing this on a timeline rather than on moving morning is what prevents the rushed mistakes, an undrained hose, an unbraced drum, that cause most damage.
Refrigerators and freezers
A refrigerator needs the longest lead time of any appliance because it has to defrost and dry. Begin roughly 48 hours out by running down perishable food, then empty the unit completely. Remove glass shelves and drawers and pack them separately with padding, since they shift and shatter if left loose inside. Tape the doors shut so they cannot swing open in transit.
If the unit has a water dispenser or ice maker, shut off the supply valve (usually behind the refrigerator or under the sink), disconnect the line, drain the residual water into a towel, and cap the line end. Empty the ice bin so it does not melt into the cabin. Let frost in the freezer melt on its own with towels down to catch the water; never chip at ice with a sharp tool, because the cooling coils sit just behind the interior surface and a puncture is unrepairable. Once dry, wipe the interior with a baking-soda-and-water solution to prevent odor and mold during a closed, warm transit.
The single most damaging refrigerator mistake happens at the destination, not in the truck: powering the unit on too soon. Transporting a refrigerator upright keeps the compressor oil where it belongs. If it rode upright, the settle time depends on the design: a standard single-compressor unit generally needs about four hours, but a side-by-side or French-door model with dual evaporators and a more complex sealed system commonly warrants a full 24 hours for temperature to equalize before it is plugged in.
If it was laid on its side at any point, the conservative rule is to stand it upright for as long as it was horizontal, and a full 24 hours if it was on its side for more than a day, so the oil drains back into the compressor. Powering up a unit whose oil has migrated into the cooling lines can run the compressor dry and ruin it.
Washing machines and dryers
A washing machine’s defining transit risk is the drum. During shipping the drum is held by transit bolts (also called shipping bolts) that thread through the rear panel and lock the suspended drum in place; they are removed at installation and, ideally, kept. Reinstalling them before a move keeps the drum from swinging and wrecking the suspension and bearings. If the originals were discarded, model-specific replacements are available, and the owner’s manual shows the correct placement, since getting this wrong can itself cause damage.
Before bracing the drum, run a short empty cycle to clear the lines, then disconnect power and unthread both fill hoses with a bucket and towels ready, because the hoses hold standing water. On a front-loader, wipe the rubber door gasket, check it for trapped items, and leave the door ajar for a day beforehand so the seal dries and does not grow mold in a closed truck.
Dryers split on fuel type. For an electric dryer, clean the lint trap and the exhaust run, then cap both the dryer outlet and the wall vent against debris. A gas dryer’s flexible gas connector should be disconnected only by a qualified professional. Improperly disconnected gas lines are a genuine hazard, and in much of Georgia gas line work is restricted to licensed trades; schedule that service ahead of moving day, since technicians book up.
Dishwashers
A built-in dishwasher is wired and plumbed into the cabinetry, so it needs a methodical removal. Cut power at the breaker first, since many installations are hard-wired rather than plugged in, and confirm the circuit is dead with a non-contact voltage tester. Close the water supply valve under the sink, run and then cancel a short cycle to clear standing water, and place towels and a shallow pan to catch what drains when the supply and drain lines come loose.
Remove the mounting screws that secure the unit to the underside of the counter (usually at the top of the opening), then ease the dishwasher forward, sliding a sheet of cardboard or hardboard under it to protect tile or hardwood. Secure the door closed, wrap the unit in moving blankets with extra padding over the control panel and door edges, and if it is going into storage rather than straight back into service, dry the connections to prevent corrosion in humid conditions.
Stoves and ovens
Electric and gas ranges diverge sharply, and gas is again the dividing line. An electric range disconnects at its high-amperage cord; pull the unit out far enough to reach the plug and grip the plug body, never the cord, to release it. A gas range requires professional disconnection, both for safety and because gas work is regulated; have the connector capped and stored afterward.
For both types, remove oven racks and any stored cookware so they do not slide and scratch the enamel, and clean off baked-on grease that would otherwise smoke on first use. Run a self-cleaning cycle several days ahead, not the night before, so the oven has cooled fully. Remove or tape control knobs so they do not snap off, and lay protective board over a glass cooktop, which cracks under point impact and is expensive to replace.
Over-range microwaves and small appliances
An over-the-range microwave is heavier and more awkward than it looks and is bolted to a wall bracket with its plug hidden in the cabinet above; it usually takes two people to remove safely. Photograph the mounting before removal and bag the bracket, screws, and template so reinstallation in a different cabinet layout is possible. Countertop appliances travel best in their original boxes; without those, pad them and box them so controls and displays are protected.
The equipment, the lift, and the floor
Heavy appliances need an appliance dolly, with its wide strap and curved back built for tall, heavy loads, not a flat hand truck. These rent from home-improvement and equipment yards for a modest daily fee, commonly roughly ten to twenty-five dollars for a single day at a national home-improvement chain and more for longer rentals or specialty stair-climbing models, which is small against the cost of a dropped refrigerator or a back injury. Moving straps or forearm forklifts redistribute weight on stairs and in tight turns. No major appliance should be moved by one person; a refrigerator or a loaded washer warrants two helpers.
Protect the floor before anything rolls across it. Lay cardboard or hardboard paths, clear thresholds and rugs, and plan the route end to end before lifting, since dragging an appliance across hardwood or tile causes damage that is both visible and costly.
Who disconnects what: confirm scope with the mover
One point surprises many people: most moving crews will not disconnect or reconnect appliances themselves, and almost none will touch a gas line. A mover will load and haul a washer or refrigerator, but the industry expectation is that the unit arrives at the curb already drained, unplugged, and disconnected. Confirm with the mover in advance who is responsible for what, because an appliance that is not prepared can be left behind or moved at the owner’s risk. Where a mover does arrange disconnection or hookup, it is typically billed as a third-party or accessorial service added to the paperwork, not a courtesy. The gas work, in any case, belongs to a licensed technician scheduled separately.
Climate and timing
Heat and cold each create a specific problem. In Georgia’s hot months, a parked truck’s interior runs far hotter than the outside air, which stresses electronic control boards; load and move heat-sensitive appliances in the cooler early hours and avoid letting them bake in a closed vehicle. In a North Georgia winter, water that remains in a washer pump or a dishwasher line after draining can freeze and crack the housing, so drain thoroughly and keep units above freezing in transit. After any move between different humidity or temperature levels, let an appliance reach room temperature before powering it on so internal condensation does not short electronics.
How Georgia’s rules shape an appliance claim
If an appliance is damaged on a move, what the mover owes is set by the valuation chosen, not by the appliance’s price tag. On an intrastate Georgia move, basic released-value protection is $0.60 per pound per article at no extra charge under Rule 570-38-3-.10, which on a heavy appliance still pays only pennies per pound and rarely approaches replacement cost. Full Value Protection covers replacement value up to a declared amount and costs more. For valuable appliances, that distinction is the real decision.
The deadline is the other load-bearing fact. For a move entirely within Georgia, a written claim for loss or damage must be filed within 90 days of delivery under Rule 570-38-3-.17. A move that crosses a state line falls under federal rules (49 CFR Part 375), where the window is generally 9 months. Those windows are very different, and neither is extended by a busy schedule, so inspect appliances at delivery while the crew is present and file promptly if something is wrong.
Frequently asked questions
How far ahead should appliance prep start?
Plan on 48 to 72 hours. A refrigerator needs that long to defrost and dry, a front-loading washer’s gasket needs a day open to dry, and any gas disconnection must be scheduled in advance because licensed technicians book up.
Can a refrigerator be laid down for transport?
Keep it upright when possible. If it must be laid down, place it on the side opposite the compressor where the manual allows, secure it well, and stand it upright before powering on, briefly if it rode upright, and up to 24 hours if it was on its side for more than a day, so the compressor oil resettles.
Why do transit bolts matter on a washing machine?
They lock the suspended drum so it cannot swing and damage the bearings and suspension in transit. They are removed at installation and should be reinstalled before a move; install them per the manual, since incorrect placement can itself cause damage.
Who should disconnect a gas appliance?
A qualified professional. Improper gas disconnection risks leaks, and gas line work is restricted to licensed trades in much of Georgia. Schedule it ahead of moving day.
What documentation supports a damage claim?
Dated photos or video of pre-move condition, model and serial numbers, the moving paperwork, and an inspection at delivery. On an intrastate Georgia move the written claim window is only 90 days from delivery, so identify and report damage quickly.
Sources
- Georgia Household Goods Carrier Rules (Subject 570-38-3); valuation .10 and claims .17: https://rules.sos.ga.gov/gac/570-38-3
- Georgia DPS, Motor Carrier Compliance Division: https://dps.georgia.gov/divisions/motor-carrier-compliance-division
- FMCSA, 49 CFR Part 375 (interstate household goods consumer protection): https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/part-375
- FMCSA, Protect Your Move (interstate valuation and claims): https://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/protect-your-move
Disclaimer
This guide is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute legal, financial, or professional moving advice. Regulations and rates change; confirm current requirements with the Georgia Department of Public Safety, the FMCSA, or a qualified professional before acting.